Although I do not think it is fair, lots of wine folks will say that the Moulin-à-Vent cru is the best in of the Beaujolais region. What is fair to say is that the Moulin-à-Vent does produce wines with cellaring potential and that through some Darwinian model the perception of better quality has created the economic conditions for better wine making. Some of those circumstances probably influenced Xavier Barbet, owner of the successful Beaujolais negociant house Loron & Fils as he decided to purchase in Moulin-à-Vent when he wanted to make the expand into the grower/producer realm. He and his fraternal partner Nicolas have had the property for a few vintages – here are my notes on the 2011 Xavier et Nicoloas Barbet Moulin-à-Vent. I have enjoyed a good number of wines Loron & Fils has produced as a negociant. In general they may shave a little bit off the floral and splashing fruit – but they consistently give you lots in terms of mouthfeel, balance and structure.
Nose: the 2011 Xavier et Nicolas Barber Moulin-à-Vent very attractive nose: earthy brush, floral and field-berries. The Gulp: perhaps less intense than the nose, strawberry and black currant float to the top of field-berry blend. Nice round fruit that floats and lingers in your mouth – which touches back to my note about liking the mouthfeel of the Loron wines. Good balance of acid and sweet as well. I am relieved they didn’t feel the need to over-oak the wine like too many signature wines out there. I think some stronger tannin could have helped build a more solid structure and gave me some hope that this would be a good wine to age.
Musical Match: Lovesong by The Cure. Immediately attractive, grounded and floral at first whiff. Then as you go further, the guitar kicks in – and it is a shade deeper and darker – but reminds pretty at the same time. This is probably The Cure’s signature song, and a good wine and music match for The Barbet brothers’ signature wine. Cheers.
Special thanks to Inter Beaujolais for providing all transportation, hotels, meals and access to the wonderful wine and winemakers of the Beaujolais wine region of France during a four day tour. The wine discussed in this blog entry was tasted during that promotional tour.