The Domaine de Brureaux Chénas, is produced at a winery that sits beautifully on the top of a slope. The winery also triple-duties as a restaurant and inn called l’Auberge des Hauts Chénas. Winemaker and tradition bearer, Nathalie Fauvin is a humble hostess, whose eyes come alive when she discusses her family traditions of wine making and equally their culinary prowess.
It would not be fair to say any of the ten crus are more food friendly than others, but the four bottles of Chénas that Nathalie presented seemed to be geared for food without having much tannic aspects. For example, two wines had salty components which both added to the food friendly quotient and gave her wines something that stood out from the many, many Bojos tasted on this odyssey.
My preference of the flight gravitated towards the Domaine de Brureaux Chénas Cuvée Tradition – I don’t think it was the priciest bottle, because I think it showcased her winemaking and the terroir most clearly.
More fruit pronounced on the nose than the other samples (her Cuvée Séléné did have a stronger nose, due to light/medium oak), the raspberry shared centre stage with some floral notes and even rock. That rock/mineral them carries right into the gulp. Fresh at first, then a wave of salty ushers in the fruit – black and blueberry. Very subtle tannin.
Musical Match: Cherry, Cherry by the icon, Neil Diamond. The man understood tradition, he cut his songwriting teeth on tinpan alley in NYC. He brought something new to the post flower-power era, with songs and were fresh and poppy and (usually) of some lyrical depth. This song still sounds fresh with it’s piano and tambourine, and his voice that never showed any signs of washing out his starving artist days represents that salty flavour. Plenty of fruit, plenty of depth. I don’t think the Domaine des Brureaux Chénas Cuvée Tradition will age so gracefully for forty years like this epic live recording, but I am going to cellar my souvenir bottle for two or three and see how it shapes up.
Special thanks to Inter Beaujolais for providing all transportation, hotels, meals and access to the wonderful wine and winemakers of the Beaujolais wine region of France during a four day tour. The wine discussed in this blog entry was tasted during that promotional tour.