Another Swiss grape comes to light here in Philippe Varone’s Heida. This dry white seems to be right at home for enjoyment in the fall season. Not so much a fish and salad partner as much as it would line up comfortably a ham and cheese sandwich warmed up on a panini grill. Just make sure that’s with Swiss Cheese.
Nose: this wine has an energetic burst starting with something you would expect from a white; flowers and citrus – but then it surprises you with hazelnut. Original + good. Great start for this Philippe Varone Heida.
The gulp got me thinking this Heida is a bottle that a sommelier with a gift for selling could use as an ace up his sleeve with a range of foods related to quiches. You get some sweeter notes in fruit (citrus mostly) but hazelnut from the nose crosses over with an almost bitter that really works. Bitter/Sweet. I like it. With decent acid, that bitterness is just an accent – I am not saying the wine is generally bitter it simply kisses bitter and pulls away – teasing more than anything.
Musical Match: the Philippe Varone Heida is a Bittersweet Symphony. Light, elegant, airy with just a touch of Bitter to keep it from floating away an untethered balloon.