Philippe Varone Heida, Sion, Valais, Switzerland


Another Swiss grape comes to light here in Philippe Varone’s Heida. This dry white seems to be right at home for enjoyment in the fall season. Not so much a fish and salad partner as much as it would line up comfortably a ham and cheese sandwich warmed up on a panini grill. Just make sure that’s with Swiss Cheese.

 

Nose: this wine has an energetic burst starting with something you would expect from a white; flowers and citrus – but then it surprises you with hazelnut. Original + good. Great start for this Philippe Varone Heida.

 

The gulp got me thinking this Heida is a bottle that a sommelier with a gift for selling could use as an ace up his sleeve with a range of foods related to quiches. You get some sweeter notes in fruit (citrus mostly) but hazelnut from the nose crosses over with an almost bitter that really works. Bitter/Sweet. I like it. With decent acid, that bitterness is just an accent – I am not saying the wine is generally bitter it simply kisses bitter and pulls away – teasing more than anything.

 

Musical Match: the Philippe Varone Heida is a Bittersweet Symphony. Light, elegant, airy with just a touch of Bitter to keep it from floating away an untethered balloon.

 

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