I have met two people from the Finger Lakes in the last year, who both admitted that they do come from a wine region, but according to them, “Oh my gosh the wine isn’t great.” Strange, that’s not what I hear from the grape vine. Here in Quebec, Finger Lakes wines (#FLX on twitter) are hard to come by, so on my last run South of Border (New Hampshire, not Tijuana!) I picked up a bottle of 2010 Salmon Run Riesling for educational perusal.
Riesling has taken on a life of it’s own, and become a touch stone for those who think that disliking Chardonnay somehow makes them a better wine drinker. I simply look at Riesling as being a distinct section of the infinite wine puzzle. The Salmon Run Riesling from 2010, like any puzzle piece does not paint the entire picture, but it does merit inspection and some some introspection on where it fits in.
On the nose I got something that reminded me of a floral version of Champagne actually – which is a bit of a surprise. Strawberry hits with citrus, kiwi fruit and apple all powdered with talc cloud. I usually turn to Alsace as my default Riesling region – and this is quite different.
This bottle has been in my cellar for about a year now, and frankly tastes like it could sit there for another few. Good acid rolls in with sweetened grapefruit and rolls out with as much acid as it started. Mouthfeel is dense. I found the acid and Wonder Bread denseness to be a great experience… some Riesling hounds are purists and want just that isolated acid. Those folks may knock this wine for lacking elegance, but, the Salmon Run Riesling has dimension, and that is as good of a good thing as Martha Stewart has ever glue gunned.
Musical Match: Here are some sounds and sights fresh and thick enough to express the same vigour as the Salmon Run Riesling and erase the images of Martha screaming obscenities at an intern because her glue gun wasn’t hot enough. Enjoy Selah Sue’s voice that is deceptively dense, and acidy from beginning to the end sing Ragamuffin.