I recently attended a conference where I had the distinct honour of interacting with a full thirty-three percent of Austria’s entire community of biodynamic wine producers. His name was Werner.
Mr. Michlits spoke about his Meinklang winery much like a Ph.D student of antiquities would reel off facts about the relationship of science and theology – and he makes one of the best Grüners I have tried in the last couple of years.
Citrus and floral notes sheepishly nudge the nose, an excellent sign this wine is going to be friendly. Having visited Austria a few years back, I appreciated their direct, frank and open friendliness. The Viennese were especially deft at engaging you without over-communicating. This wine is more Viennese than an over-priced apple strudel.
My notes for this wine called it laser sharp. Not simply because it is a dryer Grüner offering, but more importantly because never veered off the rails: perfect balance of acid, citrus that sweetened and floral notes. This is the result of a winemaker with vision and dedication, not just a hope and prayer. Some Grüners leave lots residual sugars, and offer exotic fruit and floral characteristics, which can be nice once in a while, but those wines seem very messy compared to Werner’s Meinklang 2010 Burgenland Grüner Veltliner.
Also try to get your hands on some of his Zweigelt and Graupert!
Musical Match: Dame Joan Sutherland. Her voice is laser sharp, loaded with intense colour and focused, purposeful beauty in this sadly under appreciated 1966 recording of Austrian Composer Richard Heuberger’s Der Opernball. This Aria, Im Chambre Séparée is rescued by passionate professionalism from the many messy performances this piece can be treated to. Thanks Joan Sutherland.