So wines from Germany and Austria are sweet and white right? Wrong. I keep hearing rumblings of fine Pinot Noir from Germany and Austria, particularly in Burgenland, produce great quality dry, open reds with good body. My 2007 Heinrich Blaufrankisch started out with some austere fruit and slightly musty fragrances. In the mouth the wine opened up with plum, apricot, blackberry, green pepper and some pleasant black pepper and mineral on the end. Not smooth and silky, this wine opens up with angles and edges but finishes with finesse and edges that are at least bevelled. Not a wine that invites you to gulp, nor swish around for too long – to be enjoyed with airs or pretence.
The Heinrich website (www.heinrich.at) really captures the character of this wine. Dry and angular, and surprisingly playful. The landing page is all in German, except for a an English language query, “puzzled, follow me.” Having visited the country, I can tell you this is the exact sense of humour the Austrians live with.
Musical Match: The Miles Davis Quintet’s It Never Entered My Mind from the album Workin’. Mr. Davis trumpet work isn’t necessarily as angular as the wine, but the Philly Joe Jones drumming and piano work by Red Garland build an angular temple around his playing that this wine will bring to your evening.
Part 2/3 in the 2010 BottleDJ Fall Classic Focus on Germany and Austria.