Maximino Hernandez from the Pinino winery in Tuscany brimmed with pride as he carefully poured me a glass of his high end Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Clan Destino 2004. I can’t say how happy I was to meet such a eager proponent of his wine, and that it offered me a chance to compare to another 2004 Brunello DOCG (see previous blog, Le Ragnaie…) from the same year. Max’s pride came from the fact that this is the first vintage produced by Pinino name while under his (co-) ownership. The minerality came through like you would expect from a Brunello. Pinino crafted this wine with a noticeable accent on oaky flavour, certainly more oaky than the product produce by his neighbours at Le Ragnaie. Slavonian (Croatia) oak throws a curve-ball into the flavour, adding a sense of mystery. The character of the wine was altogether different despite their reliance on 100% Sangiovese grape and the relative proximity within the commune of Montalcino. The Pinino website features the music of UB40′s “Red Red Wine”, but this is hardly an appropriate soundtrack for this wine. Sipping Rum and Cokes and smelling the fresh see air blowing in off the Point of Negril, Jamaica is what comes to my mind with that particular song. If you could morph the reggae beat into a waltz, ( a stretch musically) it would be more appropriate. Whereas I had compared the rawness of Le Ragnaie’s version of the Brunello to 60′s art-rock legend Lou Reed, Pinino decided to get a “Hired Gun” wine maker in Dr. Paolo Vaggagini. The results are predictably more classic. More refined. Mozart’s glorious Haffner Symphony No. 35 Finale captures the spirit of this wine that has very high aspirations, and delivers the goods.
Let me know what wine you would match with this music.